Anime Aunties Visit Japan

Day 3: Ikebukuro Round 2 and Shinjuku's Golden Gai Bars

Jacki: I'm truly a kid in a candy store in Japan. Anime ads pop up on giant billboards. They hang on banners on the streets. They're on the little TVs on the train. I cannot get enough.

I eyed so many captivating storefronts on Otome Road yesterday, so I decided to return to Ikebukuro!

First stop, Sanrio! The pastel-colored shop was packed with pink, and all of my favorites were there, from Cinnamaroll to Keropi. They had everything a Sanrio fan would desire, but I settled on a Pompompurin scrunchie and Kurumi barrettes.

Across the street was an arcade, and I couldn't resist. The variety of prizes was hilarious, from giant plastic cockroaches to bedazzled purses. Since I was on a Sanrio kick, I decided to try out a claw machine that could reward you with a Melody makeup bag. It didn't go well, and I really don't want to talk about it; thank you. Not bitter, obviously.

I told myself not to fret since the Pokemon Center was next! When I arrived, I was greeted by a giant Miraidon surrounded by plushies, stickers, and more. The merch was great, but the life-size Pokemon and trainers really made this spot special. There was a display with starter fan-favorites, including the classic three, Chikorita, Litten, and more! There are countless photo ops for Pokémon fans— if you come to Tokyo, I wouldn't miss out on this spot! The Crayon Shin-Chan store is across the hall too, and it was hilarious and had some epic statues, showing ballerinas and sword fights.

I detailed my incredible BL K Books experience yesterday— well, we went back, lol. Yep, obsessed now. I left with two acrylic standees of Tokyo Revengers' Baji and Draken this time. Because they're hot, it took me a long time to decide, too. There were way too many options. I kind of want to go back… anyway!

My favorite part of the day had to be the Shibuya Scramble! When we left the train station, I couldn't believe my eyes. Hundreds of people crossing every which way while a giant Lelouch (Code Geass) and Ai (Oshi No Ko) gazed down on us ants. The city felt so alive in this spot, and I could see all of the anime I watched over the years at this moment— the busy, bustling street scenes that I had seen so many times — here I was now, finally seeing it in real life after being an otaku for decades.

In the MAGNET by Shibuya109 building right in the heart of Shibuya is the acclaimed One Piece Mugiwara Store— and you better believe this self-proclaimed Boa Hancock lookalike was STOKED. Life-size Sanji and Chopper greeted us at the door, and the party only began there. If you're a One Piece fan, you must visit this store. Non-negotiable. The freaking lamps are straw hats, there are wanted posters of all your favorites, and there are claw machines (Lynzee won on her first try. Not jealous or anything, lol.) I wanted to buy every pin they had on display, but they were out of many of them. The store was packed and extremely popular (duh, it's One Piece). I left with mini Luffy and Zoro plushies, a mystery pin (ooooOoooo), and a Boa Hancock folder!

Phew! Busy day! Well, we ain't done yet! No better way to wrap up the day than with a stop at a Golden Gai bar, and we found one called Animeholic. This was actually an extraordinary spot; this area is unparalleled— small closet-sized bars all packed together with unique themes. Animeholic has to be on every otaku's must-see list! It's a hidden gem on a tucked away alley, but once you go through that small door (I bumped my head) and up the narrow staircase, it's the dive bar every anime fan dreamed of. It's small, sweaty, and covered with anime posters, showing classics like Urusei Yatsura (there's a fake Rumiko Takahashi signature on that crinkly paper) to Bleach— oh, and a hidden hentai corner! Their drink special: SLAM DUNK! — a delectable anime twist on a tequila sunrise. Lynzee and I gulped it down — we were beat! There is no better way to wrap up our third day in Japan. Cheers.

Lynzee: It was all business for me the first half of the day (something I should be able to share with you all soon), so I made like a salaryman and ran to the subway for a long commute and quite a few train line switches. While I can't talk about exactly what I was up to yet, I got to meet with some great colleagues I hadn't met in person until now. It's interesting that, while I'm in a foreign country, I've already had several meet-ups with friends.

After wrapping up business, I reunited with Jacki in Shibuya, and the energy there at the crossing was electric. It is a tourist trap. A long line stretched through the plaza to take a picture with Hachiko, the faithful dog who continued to wait for her master at the station even after he died. The Hachiko statue is a popular meet-up spot by the Shibuya Scramble crosswalk and giant billboards. There are also performers standing around for photo-ops, ikemen-types in idol uniforms, a man with braided hair dressed as a Shinsengumi singing American top 40 hits into a mic and speaker system, and vendors selling snacks. Our primary objective was the Mugiwara One Piece Store (more video of that soon) inside the Magnet Building, a large department store that's also home to a vinyl records store, a Godzilla store, and more. We were about to head inside when an idol and camera crew approached us.

One thing to note is if you are not Japanese and traveling in Japan, it's not unusual to get approached by curious locals. Sometimes they want to know where you're from; other times, school children want to practice their English, and sometimes they want you to act out typical idol poses to get a funny video. Excuse me, Jacki and I are professionals here, and we can moe moe kyun with the best of them.

After wrapping up at Mugiwara One Piece, we made our way to the Golden Gai district, which is part of Kabukicho in Shinjuku. How should I describe Kabuki-cho...I honestly wouldn't recommend that women go alone. It's an adult-oriented nightlife district. The Golden Gai bar area, a series of alleys filled with small drink establishments, is foreigner-friendly. Just make sure to abide by the rules (photography and video are not allowed). Across from Animeholic was another bar with a sign on the door that read "Foreigner friendly. I love to speak English, and I love you." So, despite what you might have seen in anime, it's not necessarily an area filled with gruff types.

However, Golden Gai is just one area of Kabukicho, and I wouldn't recommend wandering down random streets in the district without research. The neon lights are enticing, and the local government is attempting to make the area more foreigner friendly. However, you may encounter businesses that include bottakuri, basically hidden fees specifically targeting tourists, and there's still a yakuza presence in the area. Places like host and hostess clubs (you'll see plenty of advertisements) are also there.

After a 12-hour day, I was absolutely exhausted. We made our way back to the train station, and even though I was dead on my feet, I was suddenly reinvigorated. We saw the Cross Shinjuku Vision 3D billboard, which often features a cat. Pokemon GO took it over last year to celebrate International Cat Day. Last night's cat was an adorable calico laying on its back.

I dozed off on the long ride back home. This is the first time I've gone to bed at 9am. I'm still fighting off the jetlag (be prepared for that), which is why I'm awake at 5am JST regardless, typing this up for you all. Here's to another day!